In love with the night.....

The trains are always late. We've already established this fact. I don't blame anyone anymore but me. It is the day after Christmas. The office was pretty much empty. There was a DJ party organized as part of Christmas Celebrations, which I obviously did not attend. 

It was 8:15 when the train finally found it's way onto platform number four. I started walking through the tracks. I was hungry. Hungry for a lot of things. The only thing i could satisfy at the moment was hunger for food. The rest would have to wait...

Delli Cafe was right around the corner. The thought of the curries and fresh rotis pulled me towards the general direction of the cafe like a magnet. I had made up my mind on the way that I'll be walking home. So I found myself at the heart of my town, Kollam, which we affectionately, and with a bit of pride call Quilon. Delli Cafe is on the Main Road. Yup that's the actual name of the road. It stretches from the town center and makes its way up to Kallupalam (Literally - Stone Bridge. I am yet to see any stones used in it's construction, been looking for stones ever since I came to know it's name).  Here's a map of the main road, just to give you an idea.

I walked into the road from the side of the Grand and Prince Movie Theaters. There are numerous textile shops along the footpath. The mannequins are still on display, and beside them the workers rest, themselves looking like the plastic figures beside them. Had I been an hour early they would have shouted at the top of their voices and almost dragged me into their establishments. Now the day is done and so is their work. They are all taking a break and I am no longer the potential customer. Still I take no chances and keep my eyes on the road, fearing, that if they caught me looking at the merchandise, they might call out....The Main Road is the hub of all activity in Kollam. You can find almost everything here. It is like a major artery of my town, or it's spine if you will...

How often I have passed through this road. Oh almost forgot, it's a one way road towards Kollam Town Center. The first shop that catches your eye if you were to start walking from Kollam is Quilon Sports Land. I've been seeing that shop since my childhood days.The cricket bats and footballs, jerseys and those trophies.Take a few more steps, you'll notice General Bakery on the same side. It was still open. Whenever you pass by General Bakery, you'll be engulfed by the smell of banana chips. And today was not different. Even at 8:30 pm the smell of fresh chips hung in the air. The footpaths are practically empty. To the right there used to be an aquarium along with a nursery. Delli Cafe lies ahead.. As i walked on there was a small crowd of bengalis (forgive me, but i am lazy, it's the general term used for out-of-state laborers - for lack of a better/worse word?) From the aroma of fresh chips I am greeted to the smell of paan and beetel. The group I saw was just these guys swarming a paan wallah. It was as I expected, there was paan spittle on the footpath around the guy's portable shop. The tiles were stained red, as if in the aftermath of some great war. I stepped over these 'blood stains'. No sooner had I done that, than the realization came to me that the streets have unfathomable filth than just chewed paan, it was futile. I walked over the rest of it. No bothering to jump or side-step...

Some shops have closed. And when I pass them, the section of footpath in front of them are dark. Only the biggies are still open. (By biggies I mean the shops like Sports Land and Quilon Radios, which have always been there as landmarks) Past Azad Hotel with it's yellowish theme I walk on. In between there are narrow alleys that open into darkness...On the right side, the lights are still on at the "Baby Shop" - It was from there that I got quick dry sheets for Arun's baby. An occasional car passes in the opposite direction and almost always with it's high beam on, temporarily blinding me. After Azad hotel I came upon the alley that would take me to Delli Cafe on the other side of the road Sree Ayyappa Bhavan was also open. North and South both awaiting me, but tonight I chose north. This small bye-road has mobile shops on either side of it, and a warehouse. I walked into building. A staircase of red-oxide floored steps and blue walls took me to the first floor where the hotel was. The place was full and I settled into a table for four occupied by just another man. I ordered 3 roti and cashew nut masala and asked for some butter to smear on the rotis. I took my time enjoying the meal. Ordered buttermilk, which I gulped down. The bill came to Rs. 96 and I was on my way again. 

Back on the main road, I came upon Dhanya SuperMarket - closed. A textile shop -closed, Bata showroom - closing. Hotel Guruprasad still had people walking out of it. Walking by I came upon three security guards sitting together. These sentinels of the night were guarding their respective shops and teamed up for a chat. They each had a chair and looks like they were gonna talk all through the night. As I passed them by, they all turned to look at me and started talking again. Hands in my pockets I took step after step,stomach cramps were causing a voice in my head to mutter " could have skipped the buttermilk..." Boots n Boots was still open, M S Book Depot was shut, beyond this the shops were mostly closed. The section of the road ahead was dark. There were people walking ahead of me. Old men, going home carrying plastic bags. They walk slowly but steadily. I overtook them with the haughtiness of youth .I came upon another security guard, having dinner. He was on chair facing the shop where he'll spend the night, his back against me. On a stool in front of him, there was an unwrapped meal. He was eating in the makeshift privacy that he could create. And I felt bad for taking a peek. Padma Cafe was next- old but still graceful. At the counter a customer was paying the bill. Waiters were carrying empty plates to and full ones from the kitchen. It was just a glimpse, a photograph and it's always the same. The same goes for Hotel Guruprasad as well. There were dogs on the side now. Some sleeping, some walking around. Wonder when they'll get violent and start attacking people...

Some people in a car was asking directions to a group of teens by the side of the hotel. A mobile showroom was being cleaned by it's three employees, they were dusting the carpets and I had to switch over to the right side of the road temporarily. I was nearing Hotel Fayalwan. Not what I had expected. The place was full. Ever since it's renovation I've lost some of my love for it. Bombay Dyeing, Fashion Textiles and Unnoonny and Sons Cycle Shop, shops pass me by, or rather, I pass by them. 

I am now entering an entirely different section of the Main Road. It's what you could call market road. I am greeted by the sound of shutters being pulled down. Every now and then I hear a shutter drop. Some are close by, some far. There is that dusty smell of gunny bags and all things veggie. There are more dogs here. Some wake up from their sleep, lift their heads say "Hi" and go back into doggie dreams...or whatever it is that they dream of... (a home, a loving master.. i wonder...) The next thing I notice is an egg shop. Empty egg cartons stacked up. Vegetable shops are closing, and so are fruit stalls. The smell here is a mix of both, of vegetables and fruits, with every breath, one dominating the other....The gates to the market were thrown open. The are slaughterhouses inside, I know this. I've been there. No more meat is sold today. The blood must have dried on the cutting blocks... Hands still in my pockets I looked down and the streets are now strewn with waste from these shops...I reminded myself to look up to the sky. It was a half moon, waxing..

The smell of spices, permeating the thick cold night air was yet another indicator, that I've reached another section. It was both intoxicating and invigorating, sweet and strong at the same time. Another shop, this one was selling plastic plates. The smell of fried chicken was next. A fast food shop was still open. People waiting for their orders. More Rice shops. Trucks were parked on the side of the road.  I had reached the end of Main Road. Quilon Tourist Home was still awaiting travelers to call it a day and take refuge in their comforts. I crossed Kallupalam to find the roadside Tapioca Chips Vendor, still frying... In the yellow glow of the petromax lamp, the fried chips looked to me like the glorious creation of a master of the craft. (I must be seriously high (I'm 6 foot three - pun not intended)) I bought some for Rs.10. I would have started eating were it not for the that buttermilk. Two people were sitting in front of an antique shop, talking. There was a new bakery with it's LED lights, bright spaces and posh seats. The dry cleaning center and the Shiva Sena Office gave way to the coffin shop. The last time I'd been there to get one for Mamma. Probably mine would also be from there. Crown Bakery was next on the line...

I was getting tired. But I told myself to stay on the white line by the side of the road and walk on. It reminded me of  'I walk the line' -  a song by Johnny Cash. 

I keep a close watch on this heart of mine

I keep my eyes wide open all the time

I keep the ends out for the tie that binds

Because you're mine, I walk the line

There was a fire, burning away the remains of the day, the smoke rising from it compensated the lack of fog on this December night. St. Aloysius School, St. Raphael's Seminary, Fathima Shrine and Trinity Lyceum School stood by with their lights thrown on the asphalt. I came to a crossroads and went straight. The road goes on. Another bend and I gaze upon Tangasseri Arch, home...

Street lights are scanty, but that's alright, the moon was still there. The sky is clear and the night has just begun. There are stars alight in the heavens and stars hung in homes. I am walking towards mine. 

I am in pain, but I know the night takes all our pain heals them before morning comes...

I am plagued by sorrow, but the night takes every drop of it and wipes them off my face...

I am tired, and the night fills us with vigour for when the sun rises on a new day

I am in love, and in the dreams woven by the night,..she loves me back....

Trek to Ponmudi

It began with plans for a team lunch, but we wanted something more. Brian was the one who suggested Paintball. It was a really good idea, since we don’t get an opportunity to shoot up our Manager and Team Lead every now and then. I was all up for it.  I mean, haven’t we all at one point wanted to do it?  But then the plan was dropped, I guess Manoj (our Project Manager) knew what we were up to J. Then I suggested that we visit Brimoor. And while checking online I stumbled upon a blog post about trekking to Ponmudi from Brimoor. So it was decided. We were going to a have a real team outing. Not the usual namesake lunch/dinner and group photo. This was going to be test of our physical limits.

So on Friday we met up at Brian’s house at Kannamoola. By 9:15 we left for Brimoor Estate in Manoj’s car. We were using google maps to navigate and after an initial hiccup (due to which we made a loop around Kerala University) we were on our way. The whole drive took around 1.5 hrs. There is a forest check point at Mankayam from where we paid the fees (800 rupees for a group of 5 members) and took our passes, a guide was also allocated to us. So from the check post at Mankayam the six of us (Myself, Brian, Manoj, Gireesh, Sreerag and Pappichayan, our guide) set out towards Brimoor Estate from where the trail starts. On the way we passed Mankayam water falls and since it was already late, we decided to jump into it on our way back. We parked where the trail starts took our backpacks and set out with enough water, supplements and other gear. The first thing that we did was getting hold of broken branches to be used as trekking sticks. Here's a map of how the trail would look. The portion marked in red is actual trail.

And thus we began, all fresh and pumped up, ready to walk, climb, crawl and do whatever it takes to make it through to the other side and back. The catch was that we would have to make it to the top and then walk back all the way because the car was parked at the beginning of the trail. The below pic is what you normally see at the start of a trek, eager, enthusiastic devil may care attitude.  

Brian and Sreerag

The plan was simple, walk through the forest, climb some hills then walk some more and then make it to the top of Ponmudi and do it all again. But we were already at a disadvantage, it was almost 11 am, the sun will be out and we'll be tired even before we cover a single kilometer. A long as we're under forest cover, it won't be an issue, but out in the open we'll be fried. At that time, we weren't thinking much about this, we were just walking along..

Fast forward half and hour, we're still walking. We're starting to feel the exhaustion creeping up, like another trekker. Soon enough he'll catch up with all of us. We came out of the forest cover and started climbing a hill, which would be one of many that we'll climb on this day. The estate used to produce tea, but for a long time it hasn't been looked after properly and has fallen to ruin. Nowadays they rent out rooms (which used to be the quarters when the factory was still operational) to tourists. Along the way we saw people picking cloves using ladders. Manoj, our Guide and myself were walking on, and when I looked back I saw Sreerag, Brian and Gireesh  opening up a gap between us. So i decided to wait for them. 

Another half hour has passed, our time under the sun was horrific, even with caps and enough hydration we're sweating out and feeling tired. Thankfully the ordeal was over and once more we found ourselves inside the forest canopy. The trick with trekking is to forget about it all, and try to enjoy your time in the forest. Soon enough we came across broken trees and more chaos which is quite the normal order here.

After some more grueling climbs, we reached what was according to our guide the half way-point? So we stood and looked down at the path we came up, there was nothing to see except for trees and a lot of green. It was 12:45 pm, the peanuts, biscuits and water that we had was almost over. The only thing that was left were glucose tablets,which we were all taking after every 15 mins or so. We came upon another clearing which according to our guide was the last bit of the trail before it joined the main road towards Ponumdi. We were all so damn hungry, and upon hearing this, we picked up the pace. Because when it comes to food fatigue can be kept aside.. :) 

This final stretch of the trail had tall grass on either side which we had to brush aside and in some sections it was completed closed off by the grass. The summer heat has turned it to a shade a yellow. Made me wonder how it would have been if we took this route during the rainy season. At least now we don't have to worry about leaches..

Grass, grass and more grass

Slow and Steady :)

And thus after two hours we found ourselves on the road again, amidst civilization. It was supposed to have made us happy, but only after we walked a bit did it dawn on us, that we still had a long way to go before we found any hotels. And to make matters worse, there was no more forest cover and on top of that we had to walk up hill. Maybe some of them might have thought paintball would have been a better option. From here on out, there's nothing much happening except for walking, Boulevard of Broken dreams would have been a good theme song for our current predicament. 

Empty roads..

After Grass, grass and more grass, now it's  Road, road and more road.

                                 

At-least the scenery was really cool. The hills covered in thin mist even at 1 pm in the afternoon, and a dreaded howling sound as the wind races between the trees. After a while, we came upon the penultimate bus-stop before you reach Ponmudi. There were two restaurants - one was by KTDC and the other was run the forest division (which was more of a canteen/mess). We checked into the latter and ordered lunch. We ate (more like gobbled) and then refilled our water bottles and sat outside the restaurant before setting out to complete the final stretch. 

At our destination we collapsed onto the bamboo shelters. I decided to get some more snaps before we started on our way down. We were short on time and we also had that much awaited dip at the waterfall. 

View from atop the observation tower. 

Being a weekday, the place was practically empty. On new years eve the place was so crowded that there were no parking spots and the roads were pretty much shut down. As you can see here, there are a handful of vehicles and a KSRTC bus. That bus would take us back to the start of our trail where it joined the road. But where's the fun in that eh? We had tea from the small shop there, stocked up on snacks and water and were on our way down again. The descent was rather fast, but painful on the knees. We could see a mist descending on the hills. Our guide told us that it would be best to cross the forest before dark. So again we were racing against time. Our way back was uneventful, except for the constant reminder of fatigue on our legs, but we kept on moving, our minds focused on that waterfall, our only thought the cool water and how great it would be. 

Another two hours and we made it back. We threw away our trusty trekking sticks,Sreerag however was too fond to let go of his. I thought we was gonna bring it back. After what seemed like a great deal of internal conflict he said goodbye and thank you to the stick and stashed it safely between a rock and a tree. All of us squeezed into the car and drove to the waterfall. We reached there just before 6 took a picture and jumped into the water.

The water was cold as ice, but it was awesome. After some 6 hrs of walking and climbing it was the most soothing experience ever. Even though the current wasn't that strong the pool was deep and had clear water and there were fishes too. Manoj was soon swimming around showcasing his techniques, while we were all just wading and sitting under water. Our guide, meanwhile told us to take our time, enjoy it and went off to smoke. (That guy was awesome, he walked the whole distance without flinching and must have been close to 60 years old). 

By 7:00 we were back on the road and had dinner from Zam Zam, wheer again we gobbled up all the ordered food, no surprises there as well. 

Until the next time....(Wonder where we'll go next...) :)